Friday, January 30, 2009

The Basics Of Sleeve Alterations

By Donna Trumble

One of our friends recently found a beautiful blouse; bought it, and brought it home. Then she realized the blouse was long sleeved, and she had never altered a blouse before. She set the blouse on her cutting table, and thought to herself. This is the a great blouse. I love it. If I try to shorten the sleeves, I could ruin it.

About the same time, my husband David and I were in our closet at home. David was looking for a clean shirt. It has turned hot here in Texas, I mean hot. He realized that he did not have a decent short sleeved shirt. So, we decided to shorten the long sleeved shirts, and maybe this fall we will buy a whole new wardrobe of long sleeved shirts.

Why would you alter a perfectly good blouse or shirt? Why would you cut off a perfectly good sleeve? There are many possible needs: comfort, style, repair, just want to. The more apt question is how do you alter a sleeve?

What kind of sleeve would you like? You can create many variations including short sleeve, sleeveless, or three quarter sleeve. In addition to length you can add creative touches like cuffs, lace, or frills. There are lots of choices, but once you understand the basics, the project is quite easy.

Initially, identify how long you want the sleeve to be. Since you have many options, you must decide. If it is helpful compare other shirts you have until you get a good idea what you really want.

Second, Measure both under- arm seam and at the shoulder. Add 1 " to this measurement, and mark the fabric with a fabric marker.

Step Three, cut straight across the sleeve between the outer and under measurement marks.

Step Four, remove the stitching along the inside of the sleeve to the underarm seam. Keep in mind that the shape of the sleeve tapers. You will need to carefully reshape the sleeve to avoid binding under the arm. To accomplish this, seam on the inside of the sleeve along the taper.

To accommodate for the tapering, you will need to reverse the taper angle for the final inch and a half. This way when the hem is folded in, it will match the taper.

Step Five, complete the hem. Look at the blouse. Do you see any top stitching? If so, you may simply fold the fabric under and top stitch. Otherwise, you will need to install a blind hem. Turn half an inch under and press with your iron. Fold another one inch and press again. Sew.

Your sewing machine may have a specialty stitch called the blind hem stitch. You can use this stitch with the specialty blind hem foot to produce your blind hem. You can also get exceptional professional results using a specialty machine called a blind hemmer.

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